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Huntington: Prime time

Prime lives up to its name.

 On a very bright weekend evening, the stylish place is awash in sunlight. And the waterview restaurant makes you want to advance the calendar so that outdoor seating is immediately available.

More important, chef Gregg Lauletta is serving some of the best steaks on Long Island. His 16-oz. New York strip is the best I've tasted this year: just fibrous enough, juicy, full of mineral sweetness. You could play around with the trio of sauces in their little gravy boats: Bearnaise, creamy peppercorn, a third one reminiscent of Peter Luger's. But with a steak this good, why bother? Prime even could make you reconsider beef Wellington and the virtues of filet mignon. The mega-ribeye popular at Tellers Chophouse also is in the mix. The Bohlsen family owns both restaurants.

Lauletta's kitchen sends out a lot of other fine food. And it will take some doing to divert you from the beef. But that  "millennium" lobster, moist and deftly spiced, provides potent competition.

None of Prime's dinner choices is what you'd call a bargain. But if you're ready to splurge, this is one dining room where it's worth it.

Prime is at 117 New York Ave., Huntington; 631-385-1515.

Chef Gregg Lauletta

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