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Huntington: Well-aged steak

P.G. Steakhouse, known for its fine porterhouse and exceptional initials, opened in 1985. Twenty-five years later, the joint is comfortably worn and the steak still is very good.

The appointments haven't changed much, with blackboard specials, hunt prints, and evocations of a different time, before steakeries went steroidal and turned to sushi for support.

For three courses, Reagan still is in the White House, "Hill Street Blues" is on TV and the movies to see are "Out of Africa"  (what music, what Meryl) and "Prizzi's Honor" (R.I.P., William Hickey). And you're starting with a shellfish cocktail, maybe tomatoes and onions, a slab  or two of smoked bacon. Then: an excellent, juicy, perfectly charred porterhouse, creamed spinach and home fries on the side. If you must, cheesecake for dessert. Go on a quiet, weekday night. Leave 2010 home.

P.G. Steakhouse is at 1745 E. Jericho Tpke., Huntington; 631-499-1005.

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