The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, Roslyn's main catch for traditional American seafood, has been hooking diners since 1957.
It's good to go there today for a fine "deluxe seafood cocktail," a dewy trio of lump crab meat, shrimp and chunks of lobster.
And soft-shell crabs are among the specials, either sauteed meuniere or batter-fried. They's also recommended, either way. Likewise, a pristine special of broiled local flounder.
As it has been since day one, the banana cream pie leads the desserts.
All of it is served in a newly streamlined main dining room, but devotees of the earlier, woody look will find it in the adjoining room. Both overlook the pond. The bar, which doesn't, similarly has a time-capsule quality. Order an Old Fashioned.
Prices, however, are contemporary. That seafood cocktail is $30.
The Jolly Fisherman & Steak House, 25 Main St., Roslyn; 516-621-0055.