Does the name of this new Five Towns spot sounds vaguely Japanese? It’s not, actually. Kumkapi (which makes its home where Scarcella’s once was) is a Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant named for owner Mike Sarac’s old Istanbul ‘hood, an area known for its seafood and restaurants.
The first thing I do with my menu is scan it for chargrilled octopus. Yes, it lists cephalopod. The tentacles I get are tender, smoky, glossed with olive oil spiked with a touch of vinegar and sprinkled with a little fresh dill. Another must-order for me in Turkish restaurants is chicken Adana kebab (think of grilled spiced ground chicken shaped like a flat sausage). Another winner. Too bad the mushy rice that shares the plate is anything but kebab-worthy.
Kumkapi is at 1230 Broadway, Hewlett, 516-812-3920, kumkapirestaurant.com
Newsday Photo/Joan Reminick