Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Kushi Japanese Fusion takes over the diminutive Nesconset strip mall space that used to house Kazu. The place is actually the offshoot of another Long Island Japanese restaurant, Onsen Sushi in Oakdale.

Both restaurants are owned by brothers-in-law Jason Chen and Eric Wu. Chen, whose effusive personality and raw fish skills won him a loyal following in Oakdale, remains behind the sushi bar there. Meanwhile Wu presides in Nesconset.

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I stopped by late one recent evening and picked up a menu. An overview revealed such items as black pepper tuna tataki ($10) and — a favorite from Oakdale — the ornate 2010 roll ($15): tuna, salmon, yellowtail, fluke and crab rolled up in seaweed soybean wrap with fried onion. Other dishes: chirashi ($18), scallop teriyaki ($16) and shrimp tempura ($16).

Kushi Sushi is at 127-23 Smithtown Blvd., Nesconset, kushijapanesefusion.com, 631-366-1688.