Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

In a couple of weeks, La Marmite will be 40 years old. But it's also new.

Last year, owner Renzo Pedrazzi retired. He pretty much created the vintage continental restaurant, where you'd fearlessly order a seafood-filled crepe or baked clams, beef Wellington or rack of lamb, maybe duck a l'orange or Dover sole meunière, and perhaps chocolate mousse or a spin on gâteau Saint-Honore.

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Pedrazzi, who's now planning a vacation in Parma, sold the establishment to businessman Richard Kearns. Gregory Kearns, his son, became the chef. And, fortunately for all, Manuel Gomes, who arrived here on opening day, still is graciously running the dining room.

A baby kale salad has made its way onto the menu. The seafood crepe has given way to ahi tuna tartare. And the rosy duck breast is accented with round of candied kumquat. But devotees will be comforted to know that the clams, the lamb and the gâteau are among the dishes that bridge the decades.

Get the candles ready.

La Marmite, 234 Hillside Ave., Williston Park; 516-746-1243.