The river of tomato sauce that goes from Great Neck to Montauk has many tributaries. One flows straight to Holbrook.
It crests at Mamma Lombardi's, which has been preparing Italian-American favorites for decades, emphasis on southern-style cooking.
This restaurant is the original in a mini-empire that takes in eateries in Port Jefferson and Patchogue, a solid pizzeria next door, and a nearby catering facility. There's also a small industry in Mamma Lombardi products, headed by its satisfying red sauce.
The menu covers all the familiar fare and adds to it. Recommended: zeppelin-size pork braciola, hearty pork chops with vinegar peppers or alla pizzaiola, generous chicken campagnola with sausages, swordfish Livornese, pasta e fagioli, tripe Neapolitan-style, fired-up penne arrabbiata and zesty linguine alla puttanesca, and a hefty version of mozzarella in carrozza.
There will be leftovers.
Mamma Lombardi's 400 Furrows Rd., Holbrook; 631-737-0774.
Mozzarella in carrozza at Mamma Lombardi's.