Mermaid Asian Bistro & Bar replaces the short-lived 3 Cuzins Asian Bistro in Ronkonkoma. Unlike its predecessor, this place has a sushi bar — although not in the main dining room but sequestered in a little alcove.
The night I went, I sat in the main dining space, which, truth be told, needed better heating. A bowl of robust wonton soup, with delicate dumplings, took the edge off my chill. So, too, did a surprisingly nuanced and fiery red curry with chicken — a true find at a non-Thai restaurant. A sushi platter featured fresh, nicely cut finfish over rice that, although ideal in texture, was a tad too cold.
Overall, a promising new spot.
Mermaid Asian Bistro & Bar is at 846 Portion Rd., Ronkonkoma, 631-588-8885.