Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

In this week’s Newsday, Peter Gianotti reviews the new menu at Restaurant Mirabelle in Stony Brook and declares that “the nouveau Mirabelle is exceptional.” In other words: four stars.

“The menu is trimmer and more spontaneous, with a farm-to-table style, changing daily,” he writes. Although some classics remain, “there are moments when it's like eating in a new restaurant.”

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Among Gianotti’s recommendations: salade Lyonnaise; Long Island fish soup with hake, flounder and shrimp; fluke steak with saffron potatoes and an herbaceous velouté; butternut squash agnolotti, pan-roasted filet of beef with a potato napoleon and roasted carrots, and, of course, chef Guy Reuge’s signature “duck two ways” and ginger-almond tart.

Mirabelle is no stranger to accolades. Guy and Maria Reuge opened their French restaurant in St. James in December 1983, and the following spring it received 3½ stars from Newsday’s Mike McGrady. Five years later, Gianotti gave Mirabelle four. In 2009, the restaurant decamped to Stony Brook (Kitchen A Bistro took over the building) and earned another four stars from Gianotti. With this latest review, the restaurant has 15½ stars.

Restaurant Mirabelle is 30 years old this month. Joyeux Anniversaire!