Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

OM Bistro launched Friday night in the fully remodeled Great Neck digs of the former Tulip, across from the LIRR station. In charge of the American-French kitchen is chef Richard Desmond, who is also a co-owner, along with Harjinder Singh and Sandeet Mehen.

Desmond, known for his inventive cooking as well as his operatic tenor voice, has cooked at such places as Public House 49 in Patchogue, where he earned three stars from Newsday and, earlier, at  Bliss in East Setauket. His “classy comfort food” menu combines moderate prices — nothing tops $20 — with carefully sourced ingredients that are local whenever possible. Virtually everything served is house-made: veal sausage, pasta, bread, desserts.

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Asked to name signature dishes, Desmond replied that he is constantly reinventing his repertoire and brings nothing from his previous gigs. On OM's menu: smoked New York State trout cakes ($13), cauliflower galette ($10) an entree of  chicken confit ravioli with sage butter topped with foie gras and apple aspic ($19), as well as another of chicken kebab  with pickled carrots and rice ($15). Among finales:  maple cheesecake and a chocolate mille-feuille ($10 each).

OM Bistro is at 4 Welwyn Rd., Great Neck, 516-487-1070.