Orexi Greek American Grill has opened in the former home of Greek Delight in Bellmore. First-time restaurant owner Nick Amarantinis had his first kitchen job at Tiffany’s in Bellmore (where Matteo’s is now) and has since worked in diners and bakeries. “Owning a restaurant has always been my dream,” Amarantinis said. “We’re trying to do some authentic Greek here, but also some American, too.”

Orexi’s starters ($4.95 to $8.95) include traditional spreads such as skordalia and taramasalata but also pan-seared sesame-crusted feta and hand-cut fries tossed with Greek herbs and kefalotiri cheese. There are soups, salads, gyro and souvlaki sandwiches ($6.95 to $8.95) and Greek mains (pastitsio, moussaka, lemon chicken, lamb shank; all less than $20). On weekends, salmon, shrimp and sole are joined by two or three kinds of whole grilled fish.

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Amarantinis explained the name of his new venture. Orexi, he said, is Greek for appetite. “Kali Orexi is how Greeks say ‘bon appétit.’ ”

Orexi has no liquor license; customers are welcome to bring their own wine.

2601 Merrick Rd., Bellmore, 516-221-6700, orexigreekamericangrill.com.