PAWPAW is popping up again. Taylor Knapp’s once-a-week, hyperlocavore restaurant is back for its second year at Bruce & Son in Greenport.
The season starts on April 2, and Knapp has a new night (Saturday), more seatings and a lower price — $55 — for his imaginative, multicourse menu. (Last year it was $65.)
Formerly the executive chef at Greenport’s First and South, Knapp started PAWPAW last year to keep a hand in the kitchen while he worked on his other project: Peconic Escargot, a snail farm in Cutchogue that will, he hopes, open later this year.
The menu at PAWPAW is determined by the season and the chef’s whim. It changes every week, but here are some selections from a previous spring menu: sour pickle rye and bonfire butter; thinly sliced beetroot with spring flowers and sheep’s milk cheese; monkfish, sea vegetables, and ocean gravy; rabbit tart with last year’s blueberries and sassafras; apple and watercress ices with cultured cream and white beer.
The pawpaw, Knapp explained, is a fruit tree native to Indiana, where he grew up. Also known as custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, ylang-ylang and soursop, the fruit is highly perishable. “They go bad very quickly,” he said. “You have to eat them immediately.” It is this evanescent quality that he tries to capture at his restaurant.
Last year PAWPAW had one seating. This year, there are two seatings, at 6 and 8 p.m. Wine and beer, mostly local, are available for purchase or bring you own: corkage fee is $20.
Seating at PAWPAW is limited to 16 guests. To make a reservation, go to pawpawpopup.com and scroll down to “reservations.” The 8 p.m. seatings for the next few weeks are already booked.
PAWPAW pops up at Bruce & Son, 208 Main St., Greenport.