After nearly two decades of slinging classic LI pies in Hewlett, Michael Pantano has stepped up his game . . . only a few steps away. The owner of Pantano’s Kitchen — which in addition to pizza serves breakfast, sandwiches, bagels, burgers, Italian specialties, cheese steaks, salads, omelets and more — is now a partner in Milan’s Brick Oven, in the adjacent storefront that, until August, was Ciao Bella. Pantano’s partner, Jerry Miele, was a pizzaiolo at, among other places, Lombardi’s in Manhattan and Grotta di Fuoco in Long Beach.

At Milan’s (named for Pantano’s son), the pizzas measure a foot across and are made with imported Italian 00 flour and D.O.P. tomatoes, house-made mozzarella and other upmarket ingredients. Create your own or choose from 10 signature pies. The Romano ($14.50) features mozzarella and Fontina, mushrooms, caramelized onions and braised short ribs. The Calabrese ($13.50) features hot sopressata, pesto and smoked mozzarella.

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There are also five salads ($7.50 to $10), five starters (such as lamb meatballs, $11, charred octopus, $13, and a salumi-formaggio board, $13) as well as rigatoni with either vodka or pomodoro sauce ($11) and a small selection of wine and beer.

Pantano was adamant that his new venue was completely separate from the old one. “We’re not just making stuff in the Pantano’s kitchen and sending it over,” he said. “These are two distinct businesses, with their own restrooms and gas meters.”

1310 Broadway, Hewlett, 516-792-1100,