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Plainview: Dim sum @ Morgo's Dynasty

Plainview, N.Y. --- March 2010 -- Dim sum

Plainview, N.Y. --- March 2010 -- Dim sum at Morgo's Dynasty in Plainview. ( Newsday Photo/ Peter Gianotti) ltc Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

Morgo's Dynasty, which has been around long enough to earn its surname, sends out one of one of Long Island's elusive commodities: good dim sum.

The restaurant, now a Chinese and Japanese cuisine combo plate, does all right with sushi and orange beef, cold sesame noodles and spicy cabbage salad. Sometimes, the kitchen prepares lettuce wraps with minced chicken and vegetables, too. But chicken Soong aside, the steamed and fried dumplings  give the old place new appeal.

And, as if to keep with the season, one of the choices on the separate dim-sum menu is bunny-shaped shrimp dumplings. They're fine. Likewise, the slider-size balls of fried shrimp. Competition comes from the steamed pork dumplings, steamed chicken shumai, crisp duck pie, beef-brisket stew and the industrial-strength steamed roasted pork buns.

Morgo's Dynasty is at 1163 Old Country Rd., in the Plainview Commons shopping center; 516-942-8688.

Doing the bunny hop: shrimp dumplings. Newsday / Peter Gianotti

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