Applying the word "tapas" to any cuisine other than Spain's can be an unappetizing proposition. But Plates South Asian Tapas gives it a refreshing, inviting try.
The plates in question are bigger than traditional tapas. Three per person easily make a full meal. The cooking reflects India and Pakistan. Plates is the scion of next-door Spice Village Grill, with which it shares the kitchen. The newer restaurant is sleeker, modernist and upbeat.
Good dishes include tokri chaat, or potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt and chutneys in a crisp, potato bowl; tandoori naan bread packed with well-seasoned ground beef; and spicy, barbecued masala shrimp. Kheer, or rice pudding, is a fine finale. Dishes run $6 to $19.
Plates South Asian Tapas, 4 Wall St., Huntington; 631-271-2210.