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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Applying the word "tapas" to any cuisine other than Spain's can be an unappetizing proposition. But Plates South Asian Tapas gives it a refreshing, inviting try.

The plates in question are bigger than traditional tapas. Three per person easily make a full meal. The cooking reflects India and Pakistan. Plates is the scion of next-door Spice Village Grill, with which it shares the kitchen. The newer restaurant is sleeker, modernist and upbeat.

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Good dishes include tokri chaat, or potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt and chutneys in a crisp, potato bowl; tandoori naan bread packed with well-seasoned ground beef; and spicy, barbecued masala shrimp. Kheer, or rice pudding, is a fine finale. Dishes run $6 to $19.

Plates South Asian Tapas, 4 Wall St., Huntington; 631-271-2210.