Diners of a certain age will feel right at home at Greek Captain in Glen Cove. Open since June, it’s a throwback to the type of casual, reasonably priced, fish restaurant that used to be common on Long Island and, sadly, is almost extinct.
Reclining on a bed of ice is a selection of fish — red snapper, porgy, branzino, sole — that can be ordered whole ($18 to $28) or filleted. There are steaks of tuna, swordfish, salmon ($18 to $21); steamed or broiled lobster; clams and oysters on the half shell (respectively, $18 and $20 /dozen); shrimp and scallops; octopus and calamari. The Fried Captain combo ($20) features filet of sole, shrimp and scallops. The Greek Captain combo ($35) features crab legs, lobster tail, scallops, stuffed shrimp and baked clams.
Come on, you know the drill.
Greek Captain takes over the Glen Cove spot that used to be Chama Rodizio, Tappo and Epiphany. Owner Nicholas Kritikos has made over the dining room with a mildly nautical décor (tableaux consisting of oars, buoys and nets are displayed beneath signs proclaiming SHRIMP, CLAMS, CRABS and LOBSTER.
Kritikos said that his father-in-law, a fish wholesaler, used to own the Astoria restaurant Greek Captain; new owners renamed it Psari. The family also owned the Greek Captain restaurant in Huntington Station that was open from 2008 to 2011 in the building across from Walt Whitman Shops that is now Masalah Grill.
Greek Captain, 284 Glen St. Glen Cove, 516-801-3200,