Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

A recent visit to Storyville American Table, the New Orleans-style incarnation of Finley’s of Greene Street, proved a truly mixed experience. On the whole, though, positives outweighed  negatives.

The breadbasket was filled with house-made biscuits and cornbread, but both were lukewarm and crumbly, the biscuits laced with dried, not fresh herbs. While chef Brian Finn’s andouille gumbo was rich and rousing, smoked baby back ribs proved chewy and dry, benefiting more than they should have from the fine array of house-made BBQ sauces.

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But, oh, the muffuletta sandwich ($11.95). It was every bit as satisfying as the one I had earlier this year at the renowned Central Grocery in New Orleans — olive salad, Italian cold cuts and all. Nice job, too, on the subtly spicy “fire and rice” jambalaya with shrimp ($15.95), tomato, ham, smoked and andouille sausage. For dessert: bananas Foster, flambéed tableside and served over ice cream.

Storyville American Table at Finley’s is at 43 Green St., Huntington, 631-351-3440, storyvilleamericantable.com.