Spring is on the plate at Stresa in Manhasset.
The exceptional Italian restaurant highlights the season with chef Ella Rocca's special of just-in, delicately sauteed soft-shell crabs, finished with white wine. And her risotto to order now is a light, subtle, flavorful one made with Arborio rice, baby artichokes and Parmesan cheese.
I tasted both of these fresh and refreshing choices on a recent visit to the handsome, traditional Italian restaurant. Also recommended: roast duck in a rose wine sauce, accompanied by lentils and a disc of semolina that's akin to a cake.
And you also may want to visit owner Giorgio Meriggi's dining room for an outstanding version of bucatini alla Norma, with eggplant, tomatoes and a hint of garlic; lustrous swordfish carpaccio; and Long Island's best chocolate souffle. Conclude with biscotti and a glass of vin santo.
Stresa is open for lunch Monday to Sunday, noon to 3 p.m.; and for dinner seven days, from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday and on Sunday, and 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Stresa, 1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset; 516-365-6956.