Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Spring is on the plate at Stresa in Manhasset.

The exceptional Italian restaurant highlights the season with chef Ella Rocca's special of just-in, delicately sauteed soft-shell crabs, finished with white wine. And her risotto to order now is a light, subtle, flavorful one made with Arborio rice, baby artichokes and Parmesan cheese.

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I tasted both of these fresh and refreshing choices on a recent visit to the handsome, traditional Italian restaurant. Also recommended: roast duck in a rose wine sauce, accompanied by lentils and a disc of semolina that's akin to a cake.

And you also may want to visit owner Giorgio Meriggi's dining room for an outstanding version of bucatini alla Norma, with eggplant, tomatoes and a hint of garlic; lustrous swordfish carpaccio; and Long Island's best chocolate souffle. Conclude with biscotti and a glass of vin santo.

Stresa is open for lunch Monday to Sunday, noon to 3 p.m.; and for dinner seven days, from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday and on Sunday, and 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Stresa, 1524 Northern Blvd., Manhasset; 516-365-6956.