Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Some amazing ‘cue I had the other night at Tennessee Jed’s in Wantagh, a place that’s only gotten better with age.

Pitmaster co-owner Francisco Gonzalez’s St. Louis ribs, ordered with only its dry rub ($14, half rack), were meaty, juicy and smoky. The same held true of the half barbecued chicken ($11),  an item that’s rarely the equal of ribs – except in this case.

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Sides held their own. While the mac and cheese looked way too creamy, the al dente pasta held up well and the unctuous cheese sauce was irresistible. Rich creamed spinach, sweet potato fries with campfire toastiness and smoky baked beans rounded out the meal.

Tennessee Jed’s is at 3357 Merrick Rd., Wantagh, 516-308-3355.