Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

theRIVERHEADPROJECT is the best restaurant in town, under new chef Lia Fallon.

Fallon, who joined the Riverhead spot after a star turn at the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport, prepares terrific New American dishes in the converted, low-slung, "Mad Men"-era bank building.

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Her fare balances the streamlined and sharp with the homey and inviting. Try the crisp and sweet shrimp-and-crab fritters; the snappy kale salad with a smoked paprika vinaigrette; or just snack on fried olives, addictive with lemon aioli.

Then sample the fried chicken, with pineapple-cabbage slaw, grilled avocado and a sweet tangerine reduction. Or enjoy her take on bibimbap, the Korean staple here with vegetables, chile-garlic sauce and a fried egg.

This restaurant is a treat.

theRIVERHEADPROJECT, 300 E. Main St., Riverhead; 631-284-9300.