Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Tom Colicchio, celebrity toque behind the Craft restaurant empire and TV's "Top Chef," brings his star power and talent to the new Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton.

It's a great show, visually and edibly, in the look and on the plate. Immediately, Topping Rose House is a must-see, must-eat restaurant.

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The grand, white, 1842 Greek Revival building, formerly  a private home, an inn and antiques center has been stunningly transformed and reimagined.

Chef Colicchio and chef de cuisine Ty Kotz stress the seasonal here, turning the place into locavore central, highlighting the East End's farms and purveyors.

Their menu changes monthly. The October surprises are led by delicious sweet-corn agnolotti;  fiery bucatini with clams, parsley and chilies; an upscale-homey autumn vegetable ragout with nickels of bone barrow and a poached organic farm egg; and a singular spice-roasted lobster with braised onions, saffron and fennel.

Pastry chef Cassandra Shupp's hits include a lush, warm chocolate tart with ricotta ice cream and roasted fig; a playful pear-and-cream cheese parfait; and refreshing, all-seasons cocoa-nib granita. Figure $100 to $150 per person.

This address has been a local landmark for decades. For a new reason, it is once more.

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Topping Rose House, 1 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Tpke., Bridgehampton; 631-537-0870.

Chef Tom Colicchio outside Topping Rose House.