Villa Sorrento, a fixture in St. James for almost 20 years, has a new sensibility, thanks to its new chef. Rob Matthews, who formerly cooked at Kitchen a Bistro in St. James and La Plage in Wading River, has modernized the mostly Northern Italian menu and added a roster of daily specials.
On the menu are bucatini with lump crabmeat and diver scallops ($26), grilled cowboy rib-eye with baby spinach and crabmeat fondue ($39), and pan-seared sesame tuna with miso beurre blanc ($25). Specials include steamed little neck clams with fennel, tarragon cherry tomatoes ($12) and sugar cane-speared scallops with spicy Napa cabbage ($28).
Villa Sorrento is at 823 Middle Country Rd., St. James, 631-265-9865, villasorrento.com.