The oyster quotient in Patchogue has grown with the opening of Virgola Oyster & Italian Wine Bar, the first Long Island location of a restaurant group that first appeared in New York City in 2013.
The West Village location, which was founded by restaurateur Joseph Marazzo and closed a few months ago, gained attention for being only 6 feet wide as well as having a disciplined menu focused on raw seafood, caviar, ceviche and crudo, plus salumi and cheese.
The 69-seat Patchogue offspring, which opened on the ground floor of the residential complex New Village, is decidedly airier, but maintains the clubby vibe: dark wood tables, a sleek bar, dim lighting and a deliberate lack of television screens, as well as the seafood focus. Three kinds of daily oysters mine both the East and West Coasts (Big Rocks, Shigokus and Montauk Points are on deck right now), and ceviche and crudo ($9 to $15) take in salmon, scallops and halibut. Three seafood platter iterations ($50-$100) are loaded with varying combos of oysters, ceviche, shrimp cocktail and tuna tartare, plus caviar for the luxe minded.
Virgola's limited kitchen also plates salumi such as coppa and nduja, as well as cheeses from around Italy; 15 wines by the glass are wholly Italian, too, from semisweet, bubbly Lambrusco to weighty Primitivo. A prosecco-topped Negroni Royale crowns a list of $14 cocktails, and several locally brewed beers inhabit the succinct beer list.
While Marazzo retains ownership of the Virgola brand, Long Islander Roy Cifuni owns the Patchogue location, and said he has signed a 10-year lease with New Village. There is one other Virgola, in Chattanooga, Tennessee.
Virgola is at 5 Village Green in Patchogue, 631-714-5000. virgolausa.com