Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

This morning's commute was just miserable enough.

Yes, one more reason to feel frosty and fed-up, ready to put some spring in your mood if not your step.

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So, today the daydream drifts east to The Plaza Cafe in Southampton, a sunny year-rounder where a brunch omelet includes butter-poached lobster, asparagus, Gruyere cheese and, above all, morels.

These conical, honeycomb-style mushrooms make their brief, annual appearance in April and find their way into markets and menus through May. Saute or pan-fry them.

And they're almost as welcome as Opening Day in baseball. Thirty days till spring.

It must mean the sun is almost ready to break through.

The Plaza Cafe, 61 Hill St., Southampton; 631-283-9323.