Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Daylight saving time claims an hour on Sunday. So, where would you go in search of lost time? Here are three restaurants that recapture the past -- and enjoy the present, too.

La Marmite in Williston Park is among the last continentals. Very good service, handsome appointments, and dishes such as onion soup gratinee, duck a l'orange with wild rice, calf's liver with bacon and onions, and a puffy gâteau Saint-Honore.

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Le Soir in Bayport recently reopened after a fire. Come back for country pate, steak au poivre, sole amandine, fricassee of lobster with whiskey sauce, braised sweetbreads, filet mignon Bordelaise and a special of cassoulet.

And just because of Biere de Mars, hoist one at Southampton Publick House. It still has a hint of the old days at Bowden Square, and better beer. Sample ale-braised pork osso buco, rib-eye steak with IPA steak sauce, potato-ale soup.

La Marmite, 234 Hillside Ave., Williston Park; 516-746-1243.

Le Soir, 825 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-9090.

Southampton Publick House, 40 Bowden Sq., Southampton; 631-283-2800.