Returned recently to Kurofune, the veteran Japanese restaurant in Commack. The place sports a new sign and new vigor. Very good sushi, traditional and curious. The "Little Italy" roll contains broccoli rabe and salmon skin. If you want some spice, you'll get plenty in the new, wasabi-driven "hot, hot, hot" roll that stars tuna. Tasty tempura, too.
Kurofune is at 77 Commack Rd., Commack; 631-499-1075.
Annona in Westhampton Beach has a new chef. The modern Italian spot also has a different neighbor. The luxury car dealer that used to be downstairs is gone. But the kitchen stays very stylish with a beet-and-goat cheese salad, grilled octopus with black olives and white beans, mezze-rigatoni in a spicy pork ragu, and bucatini all'Amatriciana.
Annona is at 112 Riverhead Rd., Westhampton Beach; 631-288-7766.
And, in the mood that hits at least once a week, consider filling up at Pastrami King in Merrick. Diners who remember the classic on Queens Boulevard opposite the courthouse in Kew Gardens will become wistful over the pastrami on rye and all that follows.
Pastrami King is at 196 Merrick Rd., Merrick; 516-377-4300.