Newsday's latest fine dining reviews.
Pan-seared Arctic char rests on a bed of multicolored cauliflower, on top of a purple-cauliflower puree at Pearl in Island Park.
Abbracciamento, Lynbrook: A veteran Brooklyn restaurateur comes out of retirement to open this understated, elegant Italian redux that is instantly one of Long Island's best.
Tellers, Islip: Twenty years on and this steakhouse continues to be one of the Island's top meat palaces.
Havana Central, Garden City: This spot brings Cuban food and flair to Garden City.
Meritage Wine Bar
Meritage Wine Bar, Glen Cove: B. Julius Miranda, a California native, is the new executive chef at this wine bar, where eating through the polyglot Mediterranean small plates is now even more of an adventure.
Osteria Morini, Garden City: Michelin-starred chef Michael White forays onto Long Island with this casual-yet-refined Italian restaurant that focuses on the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna.
Barmani's Kitchen & Bar
Barmani's Kitchen & Bar, Huntington: With its soothing tones, jovial servers and never-say-no ethos, this eatery is a place for grown-ups and the Mediterranean dishes they know well and love.
Kotobuki, Hauppauge: Elaborate sushi rolls -- more than 70 of them -- are this eatery's stock in trade, but do they add up to a great sushi experience?
317 Main Street
317 Main Street, Farmingdale: A chef with an amazing story of survival brings this gastropub to vivid life.
Tutti Noi, Oceanside: "Tutti Noi" means "all of us," and the name conveys the warmth that partners Artie and Tracey Sabella express in their restaurant's food, service and decor.
Peter Luger Steakhouse
Peter Luger Steakhouse, Great Neck: For better or worse, it's still 1960 at this legendary steakhouse, where the intervening years have had little to no effect on the kitchen or the dining room.
Iavarone Italian Kitchen & Pizzeria
Iavarone Italian Kitchen & Pizzeria, Plainview: The Iavarone family has been selling sausages and other Italian provisions since the 1920s. Now they've opened their biggest and boldest eatery yet.
Five Ocean, Long Beach: Veteran fine-dining chef Craig Attwood kicks off his shoes at Five Ocean, a casual, beach-side eatery that, nevertheless, has serious culinary cred.
Due Baci, Port Jefferson: This Italian-Sicilian restaurant slings burrata, gnocchi and veal chops on a strip known more for fried clams and steamed lobster.
Long Island Pekin
Long Island Pekin, Babylon: In a sea of Sichuan, this Cantonese restaurant revisits the first Chinese foods that many Americans fell in love with -- roast pork, lo mein, steamed dumplings -- and raises them to new heights.
Primehouse Steak & Sushi
Primehouse Steak & Sushi, Garden City: Suddenly, Garden City is one of Long Island's destinations for steak.
The Linwood Restaurant & Cocktails
The Linwood Restaurant & Cocktails, Bay Shore: Here, a strong menu and perfect execution triumph over the somewhat odd decor.
BLVD25 New American Kitchen
BLVD25 New American Kitchen, Manhasset: This stylish, meticulous modern bistro was two-and-a-half years in the making, and precision is the name of its game.
Harbor House, Northport: This eatery serves satisfying seafood fare, if you can get past the noise.
Bryant & Cooper
Bryant & Cooper, Roslyn: This steakhouse, which opened in 1986, recently underwent renovations, but it's pretty much the same. And that's just fine.
Grasso's, Cold Spring Harbor: The food is very good, and so's the live music at this Main Street mainstay, which seasons a suburban setting with some city style.
Showfish, Montauk: This new eatery is chef Jeremy Blutstein's star turn -- an excellent seafood restaurant in Gurney's Star Island Resort & Marina, formerly the Montauk Yacht Club.
Prohibition Kitchen, Port Jefferson: This restaurant takes Port Jefferson by storm with its Instagram-friendly, slightly wacky dishes that, despite the glitz, hit all the right notes. Don't miss the flaming potato chips.
The Halyard, Greenport: In spring 2019, celebrated North Fork chef Stephan Bogardus took over this waterfront dining room. Now, he's quietly re-engineering its seafood-classics menu.
View, Oakdale: This seafood spot is one of Long Island's best waterfront restaurants, with food that matches its location overlooking Great South Bay.
Texas de Brazil Churrascaria Steakhouse
Texas de Brazil Churrascaria Steakhouse, Lake Grove: Arrive hungry to this wildly hued, all-you-can-eat restaurant, where carvers wander the dining room with spears of roasted steak, lamb, pork and chicken and the salad bar is stocked with dozens of dishes. Leave plenty of time to get stuffed, though: Dinner can easily run to two hours or more.
Pier 95, Freeport: This veteran restaurant is one of Long Island's best for seafood, including some dishes with Iberian, Portuguese flair.
1221 at MFP
1221 at MFP, Roslyn: This eatery is situated across from the reborn My Father's Place in The Roslyn Hotel. It's a show.
Maui Chop House
Maui Chop House, Rocky Point: This Hawaii-themed restaurant, now in the space once occupied by BBD's, puts out hit- and- miss dishes along with a bangup Mai Tai.
Maldon & Mignonette
Maldon & Mignonette, Sea Cliff: Here, 29-year-old chef-owner Robert Occhipinti combines youthful exuberance with a refined, seasonal sensibility.
North Fork Table & Inn
North Fork Table & Inn, Southold: A new chef heads up this iconic North Fork elegant dining destination.
Ra-Cha Thai Cuisine
Ra-Cha Thai Cuisine, Huntington: This Thai eatery brings spicy heat to downtown Huntington.
Tiga, Port Washington: This sushi spot takes raw fish to a new, artistic level.
The Snapper Inn
The Snapper Inn, Oakdale: This seafood spot celebrates its 90th year. It's a landmark that seems younger.
Top Hat Oyster Bar & French Quarter Kitchen
Top Hat Oyster Bar & French Quarter Kitchen, Bellmore: Oysters, gumbo, jambalaya and Hurricanes converge at this jubilant new Cajun-Creole spot from chef Stephen Rosenbluth in the middle of downtown Bellmore.
Konoba, Huntington: This eatery brings a taste of Croatia to downtown Huntington, on the plate and in the glass. It's a lively trip.
Pearl, Island Park: With its contemporary seafood menu and stylish decor, Pearl appears to be the restaurant that Island Park has been waiting for.
River Road, Oyster Bay: Star chef Michael Meehan returns to the address where his career was launched, with American-style bistro River Road in Oyster Bay. Different year, different restaurant.
Husk & Vine Kitchen & Cocktails
Husk & Vine Kitchen & Cocktails, St. James: Chef-owner Nicholas Trovato changes the market-driven menu weekly at this spot, drawing on flavors from across the globe for small plates meant to be ordered in bulk. The drinks list is lengthy and just as eclectic, fueling a lively bar scene.
Prime 1024, Roslyn: This long-awaited steakhouse and Italian restaurant was worth the wait.
The Bryant, Huntington Station: The Poll brothers' first Suffolk restaurant is a big, carefully designed, party of a restaurant that gives you a taste of their six other hits.
Small Batch, Garden City: "Top Chef" judge Tom Colicchio's urban farmhouse at Roosevelt Field mall serves comfort food with an emphasis on Long Island foods and wines.
Blue Goose Craft Kitchen and Cocktails
Blue Goose Craft Kitchen and Cocktails, Patchogue: The 110-year-old building that houses this eatery has a long history as a hangout: It first opened in 1934 as John's Bar & Grill, and received one of the first liquor licenses issued in Suffolk County; later, it was known as KB's Burger Shack. The newest incarnation keeps the tavern-food focus, but adds fussier dishes such as deviled duck eggs, lettuce wraps and a hickory-smoked pork chop.
NoCo Kitchen Wine and Cocktails
NoCo Kitchen Wine and Cocktails, St. James: This restaurant offers stellar food and style. It's New American with European accents, and excellent from start to finish.
Dodici, Rockville Centre: With a picture-postcard decor, assured service and excellent food, this Italian restaurant still shines after 25 years.
LongHorn Steakhouse, Farmingdale: This moderately-priced steakhouse has opened its first Long Island location.
The Harrison, Floral Park: This new eatery is one of the most alluring tavern-slash restaurants to open in recent memory, even as its kitchen is still finding its footing.
Pietro Cucina Italiana
Pietro Cucina Italiana, St. James: Crispy goat, wild boar fried in crushed pistachios, whipped cod lurking under a bed of fennel. This inviting Italian restaurant and the newest tenant in the St. James farmhouse that housed both Mirabelle and Kitchen A Bistro, serves up plenty of eclecticism but is so instantly popular you may have to wait for 'em.
Parea Restaurant & Snack Bar
Parea Restaurant & Snack Bar, Huntington: This eatery succeeds Mediterranean Snack Bar, which was sold after 43 years, and is an almost dish-by-dish homage to the original.
Shoshaku, Great Neck: Izakaya, sushi and offbeat noodle dishes merge at this intimate Japanese bistro.
Restoration Kitchen & Cocktails
Restoration Kitchen & Cocktails, Lindenhurst: This nonprofit restaurant, in effect, has a motto: Be the good you want to see in the world. It's a casual, openhanded spot in a vintage building, and cocktails aside, suitable for the whole family.
Viaggio Italian Chop House
Viaggio Italian Chop House, Rockville Centre: This eatery specializes in steaks, chops and familiar Italian-American dishes at the former site of Viaggio Tapas.