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First bite: Arata Sushi in Syosset

Fish tacos with seviche at Arata Sushi in

Fish tacos with seviche at Arata Sushi in Syosset Photo Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

The demise of Tsubo leads to the opening of Arata Sushi, a contemporary Japanese restaurant that immediately is a major competitor on Long Island.

You can come here for the familiar tempura and the teriyaki. But it's the creative take on sushi that will make you return.

A 10-piece omakase, or chef's choice, may include surprises such as salmon showered with crisp Brussels-sprout petals, fluke with onion salsa, white tuna capped with salsa verde and seared tuna with roasted tomato. They're little jewels. And delicious. The sushi omakase is $38; the sashimi, $43. Traditional sushi-sashimi dinner is $23. By the piece, sushi is $3 to $5.95.

Start with the tangy, seviche-filled fish tacos; or the crisp samosa (yes, samosa) with crab and corn. Maybe the chicken-and-shrimp shumai, with aged ginger sauce.

They're all winners. So's Arata Sushi, which already is deservedly packed.

Arata Sushi, 10 Spring Rd., Syosset; 516-921-8154.

Those fish tacos.

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