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First bite: East Hampton Grill

Key lime pie at East Hampton Grill in

Key lime pie at East Hampton Grill in East Hampton. (June 2011) Newsday/Peter Gianotti Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

East Hampton Grill makes you immediately forget  about Della Femina. The new restaurant at the old address has completed a total overhaul of the place and is serving excellent American food.

The eatery already fits in as if it has been around for years instead of weeks: confident, and polished, easygoing and unpretentious, with exceptional service — a restaurant for grown-ups. The comfortable dining room now is a  mix of modern and traditional style, as if to reflect the menu itself. And chef Brian Stefano's fare, from the rosemary biscuits and the soft-shell crab po'boy to crabcakes and prime rib roast, barbecued ribs to cod with sticky rice, is flavor-packed and first-class. Dessert: classic Key lime pie.

East Hampton Grill is part of the Hillstone Restaurant Group, which includes the Palm Beach Grill. The place garnered some publicity when Della Femina sold. A lot of East End  restaurants are getting into columns and blogs this season. But East Hampton Grill already is a headliner. Go.

East Hampton Grill, 99 North Main St., East Hampton; 631-329-6666.

Key lime pie at East Hampton Grill. 

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