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First bites: Green Olive Bistro, Lynbrook

"Chicago" pan pizza at Green Olive Bistro, Lynbrook Photo Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

Newly installed in the former Lynbrook home of Uno Chicago Grill is Green Olive Bistro, which continues its predecessor's tradition of serving Chicago-style deep-dish pan pizza. It was the craving for such pizza that lured me there.

The individual-sized pie is described as having a “thick olive-oil-laced crust with a layer of mozzarella, topped with hand-crushed Italian plum tomatoes.” Yes, the topping was bright and fresh, appealing. But the crust — thick and a trifle bready — didn’t come close to the real Chicago deal. This I say fresh from a recent visit to Gino’s East in the Windy City, where the distinctive crust proved irresistible — at once flaky, buttery and crisp. Very different from New York pizza and, so far as I can tell, not to be found in these parts.

Green Olive Bistro place does have other allures. An appetizer of grilled octopus was very tender, subtly smoky. (But, gee, I wish chef Giuseppe Capobianco hadn’t thought to squirt balsamic syrup over the top. This is a trend I have yet to understand.) And I found very good lasagna here, as well.

Green Olive Bistro is at 693 Sunrise Hwy., Lynbrook, 516-881-7333.

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