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First bites: Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn

At Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn, deviled eggs are

At Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn, deviled eggs are showered with chives. (May 1, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Hendrick Onderdonk hosted George Washington. George and Gillis Poll are ready for you.

Hendrick's Tavern, the Polls' savvy successor to George Washington Manor across from the clock tower in Roslyn, is the newest Gold Coast playground. To say the place has been transformed and rebuilt is an understatement. It now looks both contemporary and traditional, citified and country-like.

That gutsy overhaul includes the menu, which includes small plates, artisanal cheese, designer pizzas, a raw bar, prime steaks, finfish, and also allows for chicken Parm, lobster fried rice and shrimp tempura.

Among the winners: the Kobe beef hot dog, which becomes the deluxe pig-in-a-blanket; mellow deviled eggs showered with snippets of chive; crisp Brussels sprout leaves that approach candy; and, as you'd expect from the owners of Bryant & Cooper, a juicy sirloin.

The tab turns pricey in hurry. But you can sensibly navigate your way through it, doubtless more successfully than the driver of a Ferrari who, the other night, was trying to vroom-vroom out of the parking lot.

Enjoy your ride.

Hendrick's Tavern, 1305 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn; 516-621-1200.

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