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First bites: Mt. Fuji comes to Wantagh

Bento box at Mt. Fuji Japanese Sushi &

Bento box at Mt. Fuji Japanese Sushi & Hibachi Restaurant in Wantagh.

One of the best bites I had at the new Mt. Fuji Japanese Sushi & Hibachi Restaurant in Wantagh was the restaurant's delectable hamachi kama, expertly grilled yellowtail collar. I was glad to be eating it at a private booth, a good vantage point for observing the flame-shooting and knife-tossing at the nearby (but far enough away) hibachi tables.

Of far more interest to me was the non-hibachi part of the menu. From the roster of chef's special rolls, I liked the lively “Green River” ($12), made with eel and spicy tuna. I’m still trying to figure out, though, the reasoning behind serving yaki udon (fat noodles sauteed with vegetables and chicken) on top of what appeared to be a giant fried taco.

Best value: the generous bento box ($19), which included soup or salad plus two entrees. A friend ordered beef teriyaki, which was tender and rare as ordered, as well as sashimi, pristinely fresh. Also in the box: a seaweed salad, shumai (shrimp dumplings), a California roll, as well as rice.

Mt. Fuji Japanese Sushi & Hibachi Restaurant is at 1170 Wantagh Ave. (same strip mall as Iavarone Brothers), Wantagh, 516-826-2118.

Above: Bento box at Mt. Fuji

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