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First bites: Nader’s Fish on the Run

Exterior shot of Nader's Fish on the Run

Exterior shot of Nader's Fish on the Run restaurant in Huntington on November 26, 2010. ( Newsday Photo/ Valerie Kellogg) Credit: Newsday/Valerie Kellogg

On a frigid day, the briny clam chowder at Nader’s Fish on the Run in Huntington takes the chill right off. So does the homey chicken noodle soup. It doesn’t matter that the soups are served in plastic containers. Informality rules at this counter-service eatery whose owner, Nader Gebrin, is also the force behind the fine dining Bravo Nader! nearby.

I like Gebrin’s smoky, tender grilled octopus over Romaine lettuce. What I’m not wild about is management’s refusal to cook a tuna steak rare or even medium rare - this, even though there’s tuna tartare on the menu. “It’s all about uniformity,” I’m told. A sandwich of very good baked (not fried) crab cakes comes slathered with wasabi tartare, a detail not mentioned on the menu. “You can order it without,” I’m told after scraping the stuff off.

Even at off hours, there seems to be a steady stream of customers here. I’d imagine the place will really get going in warmer weather, when there’s also alfresco dining.

Nader’s Fish on the Run is at 217 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-423-6300

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