No question, the month-old Neraki Mediterranean Grill is one striking restaurant. Decorated in the deep crystal blue of the Aegean, its tasteful contemporary interior is hung with oversize photos of Greece — close as I'll get, for awhile, to climbing the Acropolis.
Chef-owner Alex Moschos makes frequent forays into the dining room, explaining the showcase of whole fish and meats. His wife, Olga, is a charming hostess.
A recent dinner began with a pikilia (assortment of three spreads, $10.95): light, briny taramasalata (carp roe mousse), garlicky hummus (chickpea spread) and melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant dip). An off-menu special of whipped feta spiked with jalapeños was a big hit. So was the grilled octopus ($12.95), tender and smoky.
Moschos was right when he said that the whole grilled white snapper ($22.95) would be enough for two. Big and fresh though the fish was, however, I found it curiously bland. A pork chop special ($16.95) – two large, meaty ones – had plenty of flavor. So, too, the hyper-lemony, moist chicken souvlakia (14.95). Lemon potatoes were good, if oily. Best side: house-made fries — actually potato chips.
Neraki Greek Mediterranean Grill is at 273 Main St., Huntington; 631-385-3473.