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Fishery Grill, Glen Head: First bites

Soup sampler at The Fishery Grill in

Soup sampler at The Fishery Grill in Glen Head Credit: Newsday Photo/Joan Reminick

On a recent damp, blustery afternoon, soup seemed just the thing. And soup — actually a sampler of four chowders ($6.50) — was what I had at the new Fishery Grill in Glen Head, a recent spinoff of the East Rockaway mother ship.

I liked each and all: The briny tomato-tinged Manhattan clam, the chunky, creamy Glen Head seafood, the wickedly rich New England clam chowder and even the  savory-smoky white bean and spinach, a vegetarian choice.

The restaurant’s hot lobster roll ($17.95) — warm lobster meat drizzled with butter — was simple and fresh. Wish the accompanying fries were better than ordinary, though. My lunch date’s trio of sliders featured a dry, bready crabcake, a very good grilled shrimp and bacon slider and a Cajun fried catfish slider that could have used a bit more spice.  Oniony coleslaw accompanied.

Other items on the menu: grilled Caribbean salmon with mango vinaigrette ($21.95), lobster mac & cheese ($22.95) and seafood over angel hair ($21.95).

The place is a visual knockout with a fish house-yacht club vibe, beautiful tile work, a mix of tables and high-walled upholstered booths and a long polished wood bar. I counted two dining rooms, as well as an outdoor patio, which should be hopping in summer. All that was missing was a water view.

The Fishery Grill is at 41 Glen Head Rd., Glen Head, 516-759-0100.

Above: Chowder sampler at The Fishery Grill in Glen Head

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