Big, bold yet full of nuance, the flavors of India, Pakistan and Bangladesh come through loud and clear at the new Fiza Family Diner in New Hyde Park. The bonus here is an incredibly small tab.
Although the casual eatery has a takeout counter, a server will take your order after you've been seated at a table or booth in the brown and orange dining room. A recent dinner began with chicken mulligatawny soup filled with rice and vegetables ($3). It was one vibrant spoonful followed by another. An achari aloo wrap (actually a kati roll, a street wrap popular in Calcutta) was fashioned of flaky house-made paratha bread enfolding a filling of spiced potatoes — a real treat and, at two rolls for $6, a real bargain.
Then, there was a mixed grill appetizer platter ($9) with several styles of grilled spiced chicken, the standout being a chicken tandoori leg that, despite looking dry, turned out to be moist, with a fiery kick. A vegetarian item, saag paneer ($7) — spinach cooked with cubes of Indian cheese and spices — had great depth of flavor. And among the breads, a favorite was jalapeño laced nan ($2).
Fiza Family Diner is at 3334 Hillside Ave., New Hyde Park, 516-280-4688, fizafamilydiner.com.