On Monday, Flip Pizza fired up its oven and opened its doors in the space that used to be Maxxels. The focus of the restaurant is its orange-tiled, wood-burning oven, imported from Italy. But this is no precious, pretentious pizzeria. Customers place their orders at the counter, fill their own drinks and then find a table. The pizza (plus pasta and salad) are delivered a few minutes later—the pies bake in less than two minutes.
The speed-with-quality concept comes naturally to brothers Cliff and Jonathan Magri, who own five Five Guys Burgers and Fries in Nassau County. For Flip, they partnered with Frank Blasi, who owns the highy regarded Frank’s Italian Restaurant and Pizza in Port Chester. Blasi and his crew strive to make an authentic Neapolitan pie with fresh mozzarella, imported “tipo 00” flour and San Marzano tomatoes.
We had an entirely satisfying Margherita pie, a real value at $7.50. The crust, delicious on its own, had the right balance of tender and toothsome, the toppings were fresh and sparely deployed. We also enjoyed Blasi’s own creation, the “Diavolo” ($11) with hot sopresatta, pepper flakes and spicy honey. Flip has 14 12-inch pies on its menu, with 18 additional a la carte toppings.
With mesclun, romaine, grape tomatoes, candied walnuts, dried cranberries, apples, Gorgonzola, pecorino and balsamic dressing, Flip’s “Napoli” salad ($9.50) would have been more accurately named “Mineola,” as salads in Italy tend toward leaf lettuce, olive oil and lemon and little else. But I could appreciate its crowd-pleasing qualities. The menu features five salads, three pastas (with four sauces) and two soups.
Flip Pizza is at 526 Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-280-9603.