Lest you think that lox is the exclusive province of New York and its suburbs, Stacey and Simon Joseph are here to tell you that London smokes quite a salmon. Their Port Washington-based company, Across the Pond, imports it from one of London’s oldest and most venerable fish smokers, L Goldstein Salmon Curers, and you’d be hard pressed to find a silkier, more delicate product anywhere.
When London-born Simon moved to Long Island 10 years ago, he could not find anything to compare with what he’d been brought up with: salmon that was richly flavored but not terribly salty, soft without being bloated with brine. Luckily his son was good friends with the fourth-generation owner of Goldstein’s, founded in 1911, and Simon and his wife and partner, Stacey, began getting air shipments. First it was for their own consumption, then friends wanted in, and now they are serving customers all over Long Island and New York through their website.
Across the Pond’s signature product is pre-sliced smoked salmon, which will last unopened in the refrigerator for two weeks or in the freezer for three months. A package of 420 grams (just under a pound) is $34. You can purchase a whole side of smoked salmon for $70 or a "royal fillet" (from the fish’s loin, $50 for 400 grams). There’s also hot baked salmon and fresh salmon fillets.
Delivery is free within 5 miles of Port Washington; Across the Pond uses FedEx for points farther away. Most weeks it sells out so place your order before Sunday to receive it the following week.
Across the Pond; 646-327-3587, acrossthepond-us.com
Confused about cured-salmon nomenclature? Here’s a bonus explainer on how to tell smoked salmon, Nova Scotia salmon, lox and gravlax apart:
All of these foods are examples of preserved, or cured, salmon. You could call salmon "the ham of the sea" because, as with the hind leg of the pig, this fatty, flavorful fish has been subject to all manner of preservation methods.
Lox is simply salmon that has been soaked in brine. The result is, predictably, very salty. "Belly lox" refers to the trimmed midsection of the fish, the fattiest part. Lox, whose name derives from "laks," the word for salmon in German and Yiddish, is not for the faint of heart, though it stands up admirably to a bit of cream cheese.
Nova Scotia salmon, also called Novi or Novi lox, originally was made from salmon that came from Nova Scotia, Canada, hence the name. Now it refers to any salmon that has been wet-cured in a not-too-salty brine and then cold-smoked.
Scottish smoked salmon is usually dry-cured, then cold-smoked. Irish smoked salmon is similar, but can be more heavily smoked.
Gravlax is a Scandinavian dish in which the salmon is dry-cured with salt, sugar, dill and spices and weighted to extract as much moisture as possible. Also called baked salmon, kippered salmon is first lightly brined, and then hot-smoked.