Chablis sings in summer and carries a lively tune year-round.
One of Burgundy's top producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, is awash in Chablis from the extraordinary 2008 vintage. These wines cover a range of prices. They're all easily recommended.
Start with the 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis ($25), which delivers wine's crisp, flinty character. It's perfect at the raw bar. There's a bit more finesse to the 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Reserve de Vaudon ($29), a slightly floral alternative; and the citrusy, full-bodied 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru ($36).
The fresh 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru Montmains ($38) comes from a superior vineyard; as does the vibrant, still longer-lived 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru Sécher ($38).
Chablis peaks in the grand cru vineyards, including Vaudésir Les Clos and Bourgos.
Joseph Drouhin's trio is brilliant. The 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros ($69) delivers a classic, layered, complex Chablis, made for a summery lobster dish; the 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir ($69), seductive and refined, a partner for lobster, crab, sole. And the perfumed 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos ($80) heightens all of the wine's virtues, while displaying a wonderful balance of intensity and refinement - a Chablis to celebrate.