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Chablis, the perfect summer wine

Chablis sings in summer and carries a lively tune year-round.

It's always good to revisit this delightful chardonnay from Burgundy. The Chablis name has been robbed many times and slapped on whites that aren't good. Try the real thing.

One of Burgundy's top producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, is awash in Chablis from the extraordinary 2008 vintage. These wines cover a range of prices. They're all easily recommended.

Start with the 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis ($25), which delivers wine's crisp, flinty character. It's perfect at the raw bar. There's a bit more finesse to the 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Reserve de Vaudon ($29), a slightly floral alternative; and the citrusy, full-bodied 2008 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru ($36).

The fresh 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru Montmains ($38) comes from a superior vineyard; as does the vibrant, still longer-lived 2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru Sécher ($38).

Chablis peaks in the grand cru vineyards, including Vaudésir Les Clos and Bourgos.

Joseph Drouhin's trio is brilliant. The 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros ($69) delivers a classic, layered, complex Chablis, made for a summery lobster dish; the 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir ($69), seductive and refined, a partner for lobster, crab, sole. And the perfumed 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos ($80) heightens all of the wine's virtues, while displaying a wonderful balance of intensity and refinement - a Chablis to celebrate.

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