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Drinks: Halloween spirits are all treat, no trick

This is the week for tricks, treats and definitely high spirits.

You could sip the playfully named 7 Deadly Zins ($17) from Michael+David Winery, a berry-and-spice, 2007 red blend of upfront zinfandels. Or the Lodi producer's earthy, lightly peppery 6th Sense Syrah ($17), from the 2006 vintage.

For a California wine costumed in Burgundy: the creamy, fruity 2007 Matanzas Creek Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($29); and the smooth 2007 Matanzas Creek Bennett Valley Pinot Noir ($35), loaded with blackberry, cherry and spice.

Sweets from the Quady Winery: Essensia and Elysium. Essensia is a delightful orange muscat, with some spice and a hint of apricot, too, that goes with desserts. Elysium is black muscat, deeply hued and fruity. Try it with blue cheese. $14-$18 for a 375-ml bottle; $22-$24 for 750ml.

Among the season's big treats are vintage Ports. They'll have long lives and give generous rewards. The elegant, subtle Taylor Fladgate 2007 Vintage Porto ($95) delivers wonderful fruit, complemented by floral and herbal accents. The 2007 Fonseca Vintage Porto ($95), dark, intense and velvety, is rich and full of black fruit.

If you want to meet spirits, blithe and otherwise, consider the excellent rums from J.M. of Martinique. The J.M. Rhum Agricole VSOP ($57), a superb aged rum; and the J.M. Rhum Agricole Paille ($41), a refined gold rum, are made with sugar cane. Top of the line: J.M. Rhum Agricole Millesime ($119), an aged, fruity-spicy, vintage beauty. Channel your inner pirate.

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