Danna Abrams brings a generosity of spirit to her baked goods that can spill over into profligacy. At her 5-month-old bakery, cinnamon buns are bigger than softballs and slathered with frosting. Huge chocolate-chunk cookies contain more slabs of Callebaut than dough. Pecan bars are so dense with nuts and caramel they require effort to lift.
One Bundt cake is so rich with butter (and so sopped with an additional butter sauce) that it is called, simply, butter cake. “It’s me in cake form,” Abrams noted. Fruit seeps out of the humpbacked sweet pies; the savory ones feature the likes of pancetta macaroni and cheese, chili and cornbread, ratatouille or, in the case of Bubbe’s pie, a filling of brisket with a jaunty latke cap.
Abrams burst onto the local baking scene as the first pastry chef at Kerber’s Farm in Huntington in 2013. She left in 2014 and began selling her wares at local farmers markets under the “Hometown Bake Shop” banner. In March, she opened her own bakery in the Centerport storefront that used to be Rhapsody Cakes. Abrams and her partner, Luigi Aloe (owner of Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse in Huntington), transformed it into a retro-chic space that accommodates booths and tables in addition to the store-long refrigerated case of baked goods and, for good measure, excellent fried chicken and fried green tomatoes.
At the farmers markets, Abrams specialized in breakfast pastries: muffins, scones, biscuits studded with bacon, cheese and jalapeños and “bombs” made from bagel dough and stuffed with cream cheese. Now that she has a large kitchen to work in, she has upped the breakfast ante, offering design-your-own egg sandwiches. Among the bread options are biscuit, focaccia and something she calls English muffin bread. (It tastes exactly like an English muffin, but the big, square slices can accommodate a much bigger sandwich.) Choose how you’d like your eggs, then pile on the meat (or beans or Dominican-style tofu), cheese, vegetables (including homemade pickles or caramelized onions) and, finally, one of nine condiments.
I had two eggs over easy with bacon, Gruyère, baby greens, avocado and smoked aioli. It was truly the champion of breakfasts.
Egg sandwiches are $3.50 to $5.50; breakfast pastries are $3; cookies are $2; small pies are $10 to $12, large are $20 to $25; most 9-inch cakes are $20.
Hometown Bake Shop
2 Little Neck Rd., Centerport