For her second act, Danna Abrams decided not to replicate her first success. Hometown Bake Shop redux, newly opened in Patchogue, seems, at first, designed to erase comparisons to the Centerport original.
Instead of Centerport’s cozy, luncheonette vibe, Patchogue is airy and urban-industrial, with high ceilings and two walls that are almost all windows. Centerport is tucked away in a little strip mall barely visible from Route 25A; Patchogue is steps away from the bustling youthquake that is Suffolk’s hippest downtown.
But focus on Patchogue’s baked goods and you’ll swear you are in Centerport because they are identical: cookies bigger than cupcakes; bars the size of overstuffed wallets; more than 20 pies overflowing with fillings sweet (how does black-bottom bourbon-walnut grab you) and savory (the “bubbe,” braised brisket topped with a giant latke); cakes from red velvet to gluten-free butter Bundt). During “grill hours” (here, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday to Friday and to 3 p.m. on Saturday), there are sandwiches from the rococco (pulled-pork, coleslaw, caramelized onions, jalapeño and Cheddar cheese on a Cheddar biscuit) to the restrained (homemade cashew butter and jam on English muffin bread). Also: bagel “bombs” stuffed with cream cheese (and more), fried chicken, spinach pie, daily soups and design-your-own egg sandwiches.
Abrams, formerly a baker at Kerber’s Farm in Huntington and Milk Bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, started selling Home Town baked goods at Long Island farmers markets in 2015 and opened the Centerport shop the following year. Looking around the South Shore for a second location, she happened upon the former home of short-lived Artisan Kaiser bakery, which occupies the ground floor of one of the apartment buildings in Patchogue’s New Village complex.
Patchogue's dining room is more than three times the size of Centerport's. Pull up a chair and enjoy a slice of pie.
Hometown Shop is open Monday to Thursday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., to 8 p.m. on Saturday and to 4 p.m. on Sunday.
16 Havens Ave. Patchogue, 631-654-1102 and 2 Little Neck Rd., Centerport, 631-754-7437, hometownbakeshop.com.