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Riesling comes in many styles, from many places

The pleasures of Riesling come in many styles from even more places. It's the grape that yields wonderful, dry whites in Alsace; the classic wines of Germany, dry to sweet; and some very good wines on Long Island, too.

For Alsatian Riesling, consider wines from Zind-Humbrecht, Hugel & Fils, Trimbach, and Léon Beyer. Leading German producers include Selbach-Oster, Dr. Loosen and Joh. Jos. Prüm.

At $16 or less, uncork these: The 2009 Clean Slate Riesling ($11) from the Mosel delivers a peachy mouthful with a minerally undercurrent. The German wine is balanced, versatile, food-friendly. From Alsace comes the 2008 Helfrich Riesling($15), not too dry, and full of apple and citrus. The French wine works with Asian cuisine, an onion tart, light pork dishes.

Washington state's Yakima Valley contributes the refreshing 2008 Mercer Riesling ($14), with traces of apricot; and Columbia Valley offers the 2008 Covey Run Riesling ($9), off-dry, heady with nectarine. The 2008 Columbia Winery Cellarmaster's Riesling ($12): a winner full of apricot and pear. The 2009 Snoqualmie Naked Riesling ($10), off-dry, has apricot appeal. They're foils for Asian fare.

And Pacific Rim in Washington reveres Riesling and revels in it enough to make White Flowers Sparkling Riesling ($16), a bubbly bouquet. You'll also go for the 2009 Pacific Rim Riesling ($10), still, but lively with citrus.

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