It's time to do the winter whites.
The 2009 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Gris ($21) delivers a mouth-filling, rich, very satisfying white from Oregon's Willamette Valley. It's a domestic taste of Alsace, right with sole, trout, pasta with seafood.
The 2009 Swanson Pinot Grigio ($21) arrives with citrus and peach notes. It's a balanced choice, ideal with seafood or as an aperitif.
For a dollar more, there's the 2009 Freemark Abbey Chardonnay, a crisp and straightforward winner; a dollar less, the spirited 2009 Charles Krug Chardonnay, a versatile wine defined by pear and lemon.
You'll find a suggestion of Burgundy in the creamy 2008 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Arcadia Vineyard Chardonnay ($50), a vivid varietal with a mineral accent and hints of vanilla and pear.