"This simple method seems to produce a dish that is delicious out of all proportion to its ingredients," writes Fuschia Dunlop in her "Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking" (Norton, $35). "You can use any mixture of mushrooms you like, or indeed a single variety -- button and enoki mushrooms are also very good -- but I find oyster and shiitake a particularly happy combination."


10 ounces oyster mushrooms

5 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms

2 to 3 tablespoons cooking oil

3 cloves garlic, sliced

advertisement | advertise on newsday

3/4 cup chicken broth


2 scallions, green parts only, finely sliced

1. Clean the oyster mushrooms, if necessary, and tear or cut lengthwise into bite-size pieces. Trim off and discard the shiitake stalks and slice the caps.

2. Heat a wok or large, heavy skillet over a high flame. Add the oil and swirl it around before adding the garlic, which should be stir-fried very briefly, until you can smell its fragrance. Then add the mushrooms and stir-fry for a couple of minutes until they have somewhat reduced in volume. Next, pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Continue to stir until the mushrooms are tender and the stock has been largely absorbed, adding salt to taste. Add the scallions, stir a few times so they feel the lick of heat, then serve.

Makes 4 servings as a side dish.