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Wines to go with ham and lamb for Easter dinner

The joys of Easter often are celebrated with a meal of ham or lamb. Here are some reliable choices to go with them.

WITH HAM . . .

The 2008 Penfolds Eden Valley Riesling ($20) from Australia is full of citrus and passionfruit notes. More modest but also food-friendly: the 2008 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Adelaide Riesling ($13). The slightly off-dry 2007 Helfrich Riesling ($15) delivers a vibrant taste of Alsace. Tropical fruit and citrus highlight the fine 2007 La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($23). There's vivid fruit, mainly citrus and nectarine, in the balanced 2007 Hess Collection Mount Veeder Chardonnay ($35). Dependable and appealing: the 2008 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay ($17) from New Zealand.

. . . AND LAMB

The 2006 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) is defined by dark fruit, with a very satisfying result. The 2005 Tangley Oaks Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) has a spark of blackberry and soft tannins. Supple and layered, the 2006 Beaulieu Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) has fine varietal character. Also recommended is the fruity, easily enjoyed 2006 Beaulieu Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). Although it's lithe now, the concentrated 2006 Roth Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) could mature for years. Rich and age-worthy, with complexity and style for this Easter or next: the 2006 Napa Cellars Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($50). It's the fruity, attractive, food-friendly 2008 Paumanok Vineyards Dry Rose ($22) - springtime bottled in Aquebogue.

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