For your Valentines, here are wines with heart.
SOMETHING NEW 2007 Kendall-Jackson Avant ($14) - hints of tropical fruit, citrus, pear in a frisky chardonnay that demands little and gives plenty. Time for an indoor picnic.
SOMETHING VERY NEW 2010 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc ($16) - zesty New Zealander named for the Roman love goddess. Uncomplicated and undemanding, straightforward and screw-capped. Find a beach.
WHAT'S IN A NAME? 2008 Hugel "Cuvée Les Amours" Pinot Blanc ($17; $11, 375-ml) - reliable, versatile, subtle, refreshing Alsatian white that's very easy to love.
CALIFORNIA DREAMS 2008 JVineyards Chardonnay ($28) - a delight from the Russian River Valley, full of peaches and cream, nuts and spices. A charmer, expressive and approachable. Who's making the lobster?
THAT'S AMORE 2006 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco ($50) - a dark, soulful beauty, with a spark of cherry and raspberry, firm structure, and many years ahead of it.
BIG LOVE 2006 Shafer Hillside Select ($215) - elegant cabernet sauvignon from the outstanding Napa producer. Loaded with black fruit. Ideal with red meat, game, true love.