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fork & vine

Asian rare-seared yellowfin tuna with tempura vegetables is

Asian rare-seared yellowfin tuna with tempura vegetables is served at fork & vine in Glen Head. (March 5, 2011) Photo Credit: Doug Young

Stuart Brown's fork & vine is the small-plate, big-flavor heir to On3. Situated at the Glen Head railroad station, open seven days, fairly priced, very good, sometimes better -- make your move.

Brown has loosened up the menu with imagination and variety. There are occasional misses, but fork & vine is loaded with hits, all served in a cozy, welcoming setting, complete with mahogany bar and live music on Wednesdays. Brown has been cooking at this address for nine years. He knows the territory and, more important, what you want to eat.

THE BEST

Try those "1946" sliders, capped with aged Cheddar and served with house-made ketchup. Dip the kung pao-style chicken "thumbs" in a sweet-spicy sauce and enjoy. Sample fried Blue Point oysters paired with seaweed salad and sauce rémoulade. And, of course, order the sweet-potato nachos with melted blue cheese; taste the juicy grilled chorizo; crunch the crisp tempura of zucchini and goat cheese; warm up with the vegan potage in basil-spiked broth. The red-and-golden local beet salad stands out, with support from arugula, endive, candied walnuts and goat cheese. Brown prepares snappy, Latin-influenced boneless short ribs, backed by plantain puree, celery-root slaw, black beans and a spirited chocolate-Rioja wine sauce. Good napoleon of fried eggplant and roasted veal, too. The ample mixed grill brings together chorizo, lamb chop, filet mignon and horseradish-mashed potatoes. Chatham cod stars in the crunchy fish-and-chips with hand-cut fries. A drizzle of wasabi finishes the fine, rare, seared yellowfin tuna au poivre, matched with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. Dessert: chocolate bread pudding, chocolate waffles, and an ode to Brown's town, warm peanut-butter-packed chocolate Philadelphia "tasty cake."

THE REST

Dry falafel-crusted shrimp, Philly cheesesteak spring rolls, and panko-crusted pork chops; dull grilled skirt steak; overdone spanakopita; bland tagliatelle in cream sauce; ultramild goat-cheese flan; charred Nutella dessert sandwich.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Your next stop.

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