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Francesco's: More than pizza in Massapequa

Timballo de melanzane at Francesco's, Massapequa

Timballo de melanzane at Francesco's, Massapequa Credit: Joan Reminick

When I got word that there was a timballo de melanzane (a dome-shaped macaroni pie) on the menu at the new Francesco’s Pizzeria & Ristorante in Massapequa, I made it my business to get there.

The place is owned by chef Francesco Giambanco, whose father, Salvatore, owned Fabio’s in  Merrick and East Meadow. “I just help out,” said the elder Giambanco.

The family's Sicilian roots are evident in the timballo, a dish you may remember a version of  in the movie “Big Night.” This one, draped with eggplant slices, was made with penne, tomato sauce, peas and mozzarella. At $14.95, it was enough to serve at least two. And it was worth the trip.

Tender house-made gnocchi Bolognese looked over-sauced but tasted lush and comforting. I was less impressed with a personal-sized Margherita pizza, which, while not bad, wasn’t on the same level as those pastas.

Francesco's Pizzeria & Ristorante is at 624 Broadway, Massapequa, 516-557-2933.

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