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Fusion 84 in Sayville: First bites

Grilled sirloin sliders served on a platter at

Grilled sirloin sliders served on a platter at Fusion 84 restaurant in Sayville. (Jan. 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

Exit Bullfish, enter Fusion 84.

The new eatery on West Main Street definitely is fusion, or almost equal parts restaurant and bar. And on weekend nights, it can be party central.

There are some good brews on tap to go with the "small plates" section of the menu. Winning dishes: grilled sliders with Cheddar and bacon, hoisin-spiked barbecued oysters, polenta fries with a garlic-and-Parmesan cheese dip. If you're up for "large plates," the kitchen sends out a fine filet mignon.

The decor is a bit more restrained than the appointments that used to define Bullfish. Above the fireplace, you'll find a mirror instead of a blackboard listing specials. But the brisk pace and the sometimes uneven service are the same.

Fusion 84, 298 W. Main St., Sayville; 631-569-5104.

Grilled sirloin sliders at Fusion 84.

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